The Sisters

Verity takes too many risks and she laughs at Krista and I for taking too many precautions. We aren't eating meat here and Verity is drinkg water out of the tap. Verity threw up all night in the bathroom beside our room and this morning swore she would change her ways. So, she still felt sick this morning and had to cancel plans with us- we were to go with her and the sisters to the dispensary in a village outside of town.
Krista and I went anyway- and we are so glad we did.

Sister Margherite heads up all the dispensaries. Today was a medical trip, so topical ointments in gallon jars were being given out in small handfuls. Other times food rations or clothing will be passed out- there is a despensary project at Daya Dan that is a dermatology clinic where street people come so that volunteers can remove maggots from their wounds. I have a feeling Krista and I will be doing that sooner than later.

Anyway, Sister Margherite is in charge. She is a tough woman, and almost didn't allow us to join them today- she deferred the decision to Sister Andrea, a british doctor in her seventies who is Margherites superior. Sister Andrea has been here fifty years- prior to most of the major development of this city. Sister Andrea gave us the go ahead.

We climbed into the back of a turquoise truck- a bit like the army transport trucks, only bright green and full of nuns- and began the incredibly bumpy, teeth chattering ride to the village. I am trying think of an accurate way to describe the air here, it is almost like inhaling electrical smoke, and my lungs feel exhausted by it already. We passed grubby little tiled shrines and flower markets, vegetable markets with dirt floors, a fish market under a tin roof- the smell was overpowering and the sisters laughed at me when I pinched my nose.
We portioned out shortbread crackers into newspaper parcels as we said "Hail Mary" over and over again. I cut my hand on the tin container that the crackers were packaged in and Sister Mergherite looked at me with disdain- until she cut her hand five minutes later and I raised my eyebrows at her. Then she laughed under her breath and her posture loosened a little.

We arrive at the village and unloaded. There is no hospital close by so the Sisters deliver basic meds twice a month and whole families travel by bicycle or on foot to get here. Eczema is widespread here- alot of women complained about that. Scabies is a HUGE problem for the kids. A wall-eyed young woman thrust a limp little baby forward out of the crowd at one point. The baby was being eaten by scabies- the worst case all day, the mother and older brother had also contracted it. Krista asked to see the babies wrist to check for spread of the parasite and then shot a quick glance at me sideways as the mother unrolled the sleeve and revealed six little fingers on one hand.

I understand I think a little, after today, why people love medicine- why they pursue careers in it and study it for years. It must be such a wonderful feeling to identify a problem and be able to offer a cure. Krista LOVED our day today- she was able to help. She gave the sisters advice. She was a few cases today that she had only ever heard of.

We finished at 11:00 and boarded the truck again. The sisters brought candy to share on the way home and devoured it- sweet things have a short life expectancy in India- there is a sweet shop on every corner. On the way home we listened to Sister Margherite tell her story. She has been here or five years and was transferred in order to take over Sister Andrea's place, who is older and unable to travel like she once could. sister Margherite lived in Africa for fifteen years prior to moving here. She worked with the Sisters of Charity in Tanzania and Rwanda- in dusty little border villages. She said that civil war was at its peak when she was there- The sisters would lay the blue and white sari of their order on the roof so that the soldiers would not throw bombs into the center. Both sides of the battle would bring their sick and their injured to Sister Margherite- she made them lay their weopons down at the door, but she would admit them all. The soldiers also would bring the orphans to her- discarded children- some of them had been mamed, their arms or legs cut off. Sister Margherite took them all. Took them in though there was no electricity, no running water and hardly enough supplies. And she loved it- she said she loved every minute of it. She is one of the war heroes here- a five star general of the Sisters of Charity.

You would not believe these women. They have colored in a beautiful way what bravery looks like.

Had lunch with my buddy Johnny and then walked home through the Muslim district.Bought four oranges. Writing this really fast- I am going to do some push ups and take a shower.

Love you guys,
Ev